Day 4:

It’s another 6.30am wake up call, and once we’re all up, had breakfast and ready we’re ready to hit the road by 8.00am. No religious sites today and it’s forecast to be quite hot so there are quite a few white knees on display, including mine.

Our first stop for the day is the Tel Dan Nature Reserve. It’s here that we do a bit of a circuit around and along the Dan River. The path is just rocks, so it’s a bit hard going for some, but the view and sounds from the Dan River is peaceful as we walk. It’s a pleasant nature walk, and we shortly arrive at the first little historical area The High Place a shrine from the Kingdom of Israel. Next along the trail is the remnants of an old bunker that looks out over the hills, and Sam explains to us that the village in the distance is partly in Israel and the other half is Lebanon.

We finish the trail by seeing the remains of Ancient Dan and the Israelite Gate before heading back to the bus and onto our next stop Banias National Reserve.

The day is getting quite warm, so it’s a short visit. We take a short trail past Banias Springs, which is beautifully clear. There is some construction around the area so we’re not able to get too close and Sam tells us that when the water is at it’s full volume, the water cascades between each section.

A short climb up a path and we see the Temple of Pan, at the foot of a 40 metre cliff. It used to be temples and ritual courtyards during the Roman period. There isn’t a lot of the ruins left, but the site and the cliff makes it feel larger than life. That’s all the time we have for this reserve, so it’s time to make our way back to the bus – but not before ice cream.

Did someone say falafel? No? Well, it’s what I had for lunch, and it will be the first of many I’m sure. Sam takes us to a small place in a village, and while it’s nothing to look at from the outside – the food is great and the view, stunning.

Driving through the largest village of the Golan Heights, it appears quite disheveled. With such a war torn history of that area, I really shouldn’t be surprised. We leave the village and continue through the region up the hills and open agriculture land. We see beautiful red flowers line the road – poppies. Interestingly, only a moment later we see a fence which is the Syrian border. 

We climb further up the mountain, and stop for a brief moment to overlook the area. So there we, are in the Golan Heights overlooking Syria. There is a UN area situated here between Israel and Syria. Sam tells us that in recent times, he has taken groups to this point and they have heard bombs. It would be quite something to hear that, knowing that it would mean lives had just been lost. Thankfully, we didn’t today. Mandatory pointing selfie and photos taken, we’re off again – this time to visit a local winery.

We arrive at the Golan Heights winery, and this is a well received change of pace. We are taken in and are taken through the history of the vineyard, their different labels, as well as an explanation of the where the many different grape varieties are grown throughout the region and that they produce quite a selection of wines. We get a tasting of 3 wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz and Moscato. We’re all impressed, and before we have to leave, several purchases are made.

The last stop for the day is Kursi the site where Jesus cast out demons from a man into swine and they drowned in the Sea of Galilee. As is almost tradition now for us in Galilee, we drive up another mountain to the site. It’s only a short visit to the site, and there’s not a heck of a lot to see – the prominent spot is the ruins of an old temple. The supposed actual sight is further up the hill and a few brave souls trek up to see it and the view. It’s over 40 degrees, so most of us decide looking at it from a distance is fine.

We decide not to visit the last site scheduled for the day, as we have a very busy day tomorrow. So we get back a bit early, relax, have dinner and then prepare everything as tomorrow we are checking out of Ginosar.

Day 3:

Our first stop for the day is Sepphoris to see the Church of St Anna (Mary’s mother). It’s a bit of an inconspicuous place to get to, small narrow roads up a hill, and then we’re there. It’s a small compound, with a monk at the site and separate area also gated off where the sisters are located. 

It takes a little while to get into the site, as it’s locked and there is some confusion about where the key is. The monk should have it and be at the site but he’s not, so now we wait for the sisters because he should of left it with them. We all chuckle at the scenario and then dream about the extra 20 minutes sleep we all could have gotten. 

It’s not long at all until the key is located and we get into the site. Once again there is a lovely garden and a great view. There is a bit of a steep and rocky hill to manoeuvre your way down, steps must be a luxury here. We all make a few new friends, as there are 3 cats running about the property – one in particular is a little bit of a show off.

We take a moment in the ruins of the old church and then we look to head out up the steep hill again. Before we do, a few of my fellow travellers seem to be paying an awful lot of attention to a particular tree. I wander over and discover that it is a mulberry tree, with plenty of ripe fruit, so I give them a try. Well I think I have a new favourite berry but I think the likelihood of me getting them back home is slim. Begrudgingly, I stop eating the berries and make my way back to the bus.

Next it’s a short drive to Nazareth – and it’s not quite what I expecting. Don’t ask me what exactly I was expecting though, because I didn’t have anything in mind, but Nazareth did take me by surprise. There’s a bit of hustle and bustle about this town, the streets are narrow and busy with plenty of cars, buses, trucks and pedestrians – you’re left wondering how everything fits and works. We are in good hands though as this is our bus drivers home town. He beeps and frantically waves at a car – that was his daughter. Up the hill and around the corner, he waves at another car – that was his cousin.

First stop in Nazareth, is the Nazareth Village. It’s a small lot of land that was used for agriculture in the first century that was bought, and has been used to set up a replica of village living in the first century. The start and entry of this experience is the floor above the Nazareth YMCA.

Our guide is extremely knowledgeable and friendly and leads us through an introductory section explaining the site and the different time periods it went through. Then we’re escorted through the grounds – we see volunteers in traditional clothing, a shepherd, a carpenter, a weaver, and others, as well as a tomb, grape press, garden, houses, olive oil press. As we finish the tour we’re given a small oil lamp as a parting gift. Our guide gives us a great tip – pack them in your luggage because it might look like a grenade on the X-ray if you put it in your carry on. Noted.

We are dropped of at another point and begin to walk through old Nazareth following our guide. “No time for shopping now!” Sam pleads with us. We walk past small shops, and restaurants and Sam talks to the shop keeps out the front, but never breaking stride.

We start to climb a narrow street, and I think we’ve entered Nazareth Elite area as the street itself and the buildings are white and the sun glares off them. On this street, we arrive at the Annunciation Church and it is massive (although small I’m sure in comparison to European churches). Standing outside your eyes naturally follow the building all the way up. Everything is also white outside, the building, the walls the floor and the suns reflection bursts off them. The church building is quite new, and was an effort of both the Israeli government and also the Catholic Church. On the walls around the church is mosaics from all around the world. 

As we step inside the church, I stop myself from saying “woah” out load. The lower level that we enter at, is where the relic is – the site in which the arch angel Gabriel visited Mary and announced that she would give birth to Jesus. It’s well set out, and there are many people praying. Although there is quite a number of people around, it is quiet and peaceful.

We make our way up to the second level as this is the standard church space. The dome is 64 metres high and very impressive. Outside the church we also quickly visit the Church of Joseph.

We make our way to Cana which is a very short drive from Nazareth. Cana is famous as the site of Jesus’ first miracle of turning water to wine at a wedding. So this place is great for romantics, and alcoholics.

Cana is our last stop for the day. To get to the Wedding Church, we are dropped off and take a short walk through a short narrow white street. There are a few souvenir shops along the way, most of which sell wine as well. I see a big sign for “Daniel’s Wine, best in Cana – Free Tasting”. It seems that advertising is everything.

At the wedding church, we see the church itself and the relic underneath. We then move to a small chapel on the grounds, and hold a short service – 3 of the couples on the tour want to take the opportunity to renew their vows. With the service complete, the group leader thinks it’d be a great idea to have some wine and cake – I agree. Sam organises and takes us to a separate shop for both, and wouldn’t you know it – its Daniel’s Wine! 

Daniel is a gracious host. There is a lovely cake, a small token gift for each of the couples, and we all have a small sample of the Sacramental Wedding wine. We drink, we eat, and we laugh – Daniel is a little bit larger than life. We say our farewells and head back for the day.

With the day done, and back at the accommodation, I decide it’s time. It’s time to swim in the Sea of Galilee. 

Now, picture it – a long day, a quiet, peaceful swim to cool off and reflect in this amazing place that has not changed in thousands of years. Now, I hate to break it to you – but it’s nothing like you expect.  It’s quite an effort, the shore and the shallows is rocky, and there isn’t sand – it’s mud. Pro tip, if you have those underwater marine shoes, wear them. Bare feet isn’t the best, and my thongs were suctioned into the sand. So it is difficult to get in, and out – but once you’re in it’s easier and lovely. 

After dinner, I’m invited to take a short walk to the pier to view the night lights of Tiberias. It’s dark, but the temperature is perfectly pleasant. We take a seat and enjoy the view – Tiberias starts at the shore across the way and stretches right up the mountain. There is already a small amount of fog and haze in the air and you can see the moon is slightly out of focus as a result. 

We’re shortly joined by a couple of Americans from Michigan who are also staying here in the group – I hope they didn’t hear my American accent attempt (although I think they did). We chat and laugh for a short while and exchange stories from Flight of the Concords. A gentleman who lives in the kibbutz since he was 6 also arrives on his bike and has a chat. As great as it is – I know it’s time for me to call it a night.

Day 2:

The day begins as any other would, get ready, breakfast and then grab your stuff for the day ahead.

I decide that after breakfast and before we head out, I want to make time to quickly walk to the Sea of Galilee. The previous day done, and things ready for the day ahead – I have a moment to stand on the shore, and not go through the motions. It’s quiet and the view is lovely, although there is a slight fog and haze so you can’t see completely across the water. “Huh, I’m in Israel” I chuckle to myself.

Our first stop for the day is one that isn’t scheduled on our itinerary, but an important one while we are in the Holy Land. A few members of the group would like to be baptised, and some others want to take the opportunity to reaffirm their baptisms – so we arrive at the Jordan River Baptismal site. 

The car park is a considerable one, with room for buses and the like. We enter and there’s an lovely entry, a large souvenir shop and a space to “book in” for your baptism and rent your white baptismal gowns ($10 USD). You’re then given a voucher in case you’d like to buy the gowns afterwards as well as a video. I’m trying to keep an open mind, but before entering I’m worried about the site being commercialised.

My worries were soon put to rest, as we entered the site – it’s well set up, with separate areas and space to do the baptisms. The river is well taken care of, and its remarkably still, quiet and peaceful. Fish from the river swim right up to the edge.

We have a short service, and proceed with the baptisms and reaffirmations. For some, it was an emotional experience, others very much a “wow” moment, and for others it was a celebration. The most interesting moment however, I found out later, was that our lovely guide Sam was emotional and crying during the baptisms. For a guide who does this seemingly every other day – to still be affected witnessing the baptism process in the Jordan River says a lot about that place and his character.

Next on the agenda is the Mount of Beatitudes – a site famous for Jesus’ Sermon on the Mount. There isn’t a lot to say about the Mount of Beatitudes, except that it is stunning. Sam gives us a quick tour of the church, and explains that below  the alter in every church needs a relic underneath it. This is more difficult for European churches, as they need to bring in a relic – but not so hard in Israel, as the just build a church on the spot in which an event occurred. In the case of the Mount of Beatitudes, the church is built on the site it is believed Jesus preached – with a rock as the relic under the alter.

We’re only given a short time to wander and see the site as there is still so much to do in the day. It’s a bit disappointing, but there are other places to see. I walk parts of the ground and try to take it in and also the compulsory photos. It was surprising to see visitors from all religions and creeds as I am quite sure I saw some Indian Hindus.

Next we head to Tabgha to the Church of Heptapegon, the site of the feeding of the multitudes with five loaves and two fish.

Then onto the Church of Saint Peter, also in Tabgha. This is the site of where Jesus fed the disciples after his resurrection and asked Peter if he loves him 3 times – it’s said by some that this is to counter the 3 times Peter denied him.

The Church of Saint Peter is on the shore of the Sea of Galilee so we take a moment outside to stand on the shore, enjoy the view and reflect on what it would have been like for the disciples. The leaders offer to take a moment to pray for each of us, and anoint us with oil.

Then it’s back on the bus – Capernaum awaits! The site of Capernaum is a lot larger than I anticipated, not that I had an image in my mind prior. Once again, the views are fantastic and it’s set out well with lovely gardens. Capernaum is an important site for Christians for a couple of reasons – firstly, Jesus did a significant amount of his ministry in the Capernaum area, before going to Jerusalem. Secondly, it is believed Peter’s mothers house is at the site and Jesus spent time there. We were able to see the Church, the relic and the remains of an old synagogue and typical houses.

Seeing as we had spent time at the site of the 2 fishes and 5 loaves, as well as two sites significant to Peter – what better thing to have for lunch than St Peter fish? Sam takes us to quite a nice restaurant to sample the local dish. It was disconcerting to begin with, because it’s right next door and shares a very small car park with a petrol station. My suspicions were quickly put at ease because the restaurant was nice, the service was quick and prompt and the food very fresh and tasty. And I got to try my very first fresh date. I enjoyed it, but I think I prefer my dates in a pudding.

Heading back to our accommodation site – the day is still not done, so it’s a little bit of a tease. We head to the ancient boat museum next door that displays a true 1st century boat which was discovered in the mid 80s and had been perfectly preserved in the mud. 

Outside the back of the museum is a small dock, and there we board a boat where the crew raise an Australian flag to fly next to an Israeli one and then we set sail on the Sea of Galilee. It’s a peaceful and easy going ride, we head north towards the areas we have visited that day and then set anchor. We have a simple service, partake in communion and a short worship. Just before we head back, Sam teaches us a song in Hebrew (to which me, writing this the day after – can’t remember at all). And then a member of the crew shows us the traditional Hebrew dance (you all know the one). Communion, and dancing like we’re at a bar-mitzvah on a boat in the middle of the Sea of Galilee was not something I had ever expected to be able to say I’d done.

And then back to the bus, for one last time – Sam has given us an optional extra of visiting a fishing museum. The smart ones politely decline, and head into their accommodation to relax and unwind. Us not so smart, or perhaps a bit too tired to really understand what’s going on, are back in the bus and driving to the opposite side of the sea to visit this museum.

The museum is at another kibbutz and near a port. It took a while to make our way to it, and during this time we realised our bus driver was an absolute boss – reversing the bus and turning corners down small kibbutz streets that are not built for buses. When we arrive it’s a very small two room building filled with books, hooks and rocks that were used as boat and net anchors. We’re met by a delightful older man who takes us in and sits us down and goes through the history, biblical references, types of fish, types of equipment and anything you could think of relating to fishing today or 2,000 years ago. He spoke softly, but with a passion. We all appreciated it, though we faded fast so said our farewells as soon as we could.

Day 1:

The trip begins as soon as I finish work, by getting changed and heading out. I catch the train and meet mum at a mutual point and we head out to the airport. 

Traffic treats us well, we land a pretty good parking spot as well and I make some last minute changes to my carry on bags.

Inside, it’s the usual – check which counter to check in at, which gate I need to board, times etc. I also get my check in luggage plastic wrapped as mum won’t let me leave the country without it – “piece of mind” she says.

Checked in, baggage dropped, cash gotten and a quick bite – I’m ready to go to the gate. In that moment mum remembers that she can’t come to the gate. I laugh and ask mum if she’s going to cry, she says she won’t. Hugs and goodbyes – mum cries. That’s not my thing – I am just going through the motions.

Fast forward through the security checks, gauntlet of duty free shopping and I finally make it to the gate. A short wait – and its boarding time. As is standard, there is the call for families to come first, then only the first section of the plane to board. I see a lot of people lining, priming for best position to get in and board coming from all angles. I see countless people turned away because it’s not their turn yet. I considered giving in to my more animalistic nature, rules be damned and joining them – but I decide to try and be more civilised. They haven’t even called my section anyway so it would have been for naught. 

The plane boards, we all settle in and it’s time to depart. My first long haul flight is under way. The 14 or so hour flight to Dubai didn’t feel as long as I thought it would thankfully. I divided my time between watching movies, trying to sleep and balancing just the right level of hydration/dehydration that would mean I would rarely need to visit the bathroom. 

We start our decent into Dubai, and although feeling a little tired from just kind of waking – I’m feeling pretty good. Speaking of sleep, I check my Fitbit to see how I went on the plane. 3 hours – that doesn’t seem right. Another entry says 5 hours – its listing two days but with overlapping hours. Let’s just all agree I got both lots of sleep recorded and I’m ready to rock on 8 hours sleep. The captain announces that the local time is 5.30am and the temperature is 33 degrees. I laugh – welcome to the Middle East.

I have caught up with others on my tour and the game of trying to remember people’s names begins. Dubai airport is something else – we catch a train from the section we arrived in to the section our next flight departs from. The signs make it easy, and we keep walking following the directions of the signs passing a pleather of shops, and food outlets. My fellow travellers begin to long for coffee, and with each cafe we pass there is the question, “I wonder if there’s good coffee there”. 

There comes a point when we start to question if our gate will ever come, we’ve walked a long way and the terminal seems to never end. That very short train trip could have brought us a lot closer to it. But we do make it, and meet up with more people in the group (read: more names to remember). The timing is good, they’re almost ready to board – so enough time to freshen up and coffee etc, then we are off again.

Arriving in Amman, Jordan – there’s not much to see out the window. It’s looks vast, flat, dry and hazy. We have arrived in the desert. The airport is older, has a bit of a 70s/80s vibe and there is the slight smell of mustiness. A representative helps us get through on our group visa – we hand over our passports and then collect our luggage. It’s an odd feeling handing over your passport and then walking away.

With everything processed, passports returned and our luggage collected we’re met by our tour guide for today in Jordan – Jaffa. He is a well groomed and presented Jordanian man, rather than orange flavoured chocolate. Outside the airport, and about to board the bus I try to take in my surroundings. There isn’t a lot to see – you can’t see too far into the distance because of the haze – but there was a smell, a certain smokiness that I can’t quite describe.

On the bus we proceed from the airport to the city of Amman. Jaffa is extremely knowledgeable; archeology, geology, history, politics, economy, the Jordanian royal family and religions are all covered as he gives us the background of Amman, Jordan and the surrounding areas. I think my favourite quote from Jaffa for the day was, “To the north we have Syria, to the east we have Iraq, to the south we have Saudi Arabia, and to the west we have Israel. As you can see, we live in a tough neighbourhood.”

We drive through a suburb which is essentially Amman’s version of Beverly Hills. The rich and powerful build their houses and live here – the prerequisite to build? Houses must be white limestone. This is also the area where all the consulates are located – so we saw plenty of those and we were taken especially to see the Australian one. We were asked to take note of the difference between our embassy and America’s – and it’s quite hilarious. 

Australia: a simple consulate, coat of arms on the fence out the front, a basic concrete fence and a little area for our single guard to reside.

America: its nickname is the fortress, and it’s not wrong. Huge compound, large fences, armored vehicles with mini guns on top, 100 armed guards, signs everywhere saying no photos. Oh, and it’s going to get bigger, because we could see an extension being built.

Jaffa organised for us to have lunch at one of the best places in Amman. We arrive and the place is beautiful and it appears we are virtually the only ones there. A large table is prepared and fresh hot bread, salads, dips and other small entree items are brought out. It’s delightful, but the best is yet to come. The pièce de résistance is the meat share plate – lamb, chicken and I guess a kind of kofta skewer. Stalactites eat your heart out! So tender and delicious – if this is the type of food we get, I’m never leaving.

Lunch finished, it’s time to farewell Jordan for now – Jaffa and co drive us a couple of hours to the north to cross the border into the Israel.

We arrive at the Jordanian side of the border crossing, and Jaffa takes us through what needs to happen. Everybody off the bus, and get your luggage. The first stop is to get all our luggage X-rayed. It’s a small simple room with a young woman running the machine and a very basic metal detector that we walk through. My belt sets off the detector – I point to it and ask if it’s ok. She shrugs. Other people set off the detector – and still nothing is said. At this point, I presume the X-ray machine might not even be turned on.

The luggage is loaded back into the bus, as are we. Next is passport control to stamp that we’re leaving Jordan. The office is big, simple, old and musty. Locals get the priority queue, and once I get to the front and my passport stamped I realise that the young man has ridiculous ice blue eyes and could probably pass for a 12 year old.

One of the tour leaders makes an interesting point, that you get the sense that these people are just doing their job because it’s their job – as there isn’t a great sense of seriousness about it. And that perhaps the Jordanians check, just because the Israelis do – but to notice the difference between this and the Israeli check.

We farewell Jaffa, this is as far as he can go with us and the bus driver takes us across the border, and after a brief bomb check, we are dropped off the Israeli passport control and security.

We all shuffle in with our bags, and we’re promptly told to come in and go to the side and not wait around and block the door. I’ve noticed the difference already – these people are serious. Our passports are collected, and all the bags loaded on the X-ray machine – this one is definitely turned on.

On the other side of the X-ray machine, my name is called and I’m asked to open my luggage. The plastic wrapping for “piece of mind” is suddenly a pain in my ass. Thankfully for this trip, a little tool was included to cut off the wrapping. I can see some of my other travellers have had their bags briefly opened and checked. But I am the lucky contestant for today – everything is removed from my bag (God bless packing cells). I’m questioned about a few of my items and what they are and he seems happy enough with my answers. 

Once the bag is empty, it’s swabbed to be checked for drugs. By this point, everyone else appears to be not only done with the luggage, but also at passport control. The group leader reassures me that everything is fine, and they’re happy to wait for however long I need to wait and not to stress. I’m not stressed at all actually – they’re doing their job, and I haven’t done anything wrong.

It appears the first test hasn’t work, so they go again. I’m not a drug smuggler so I pass the test. The young Israeli man helps me repack my bag – very kind. It’s not as organized as it was – but the lid closes and so it’s good enough.

I have my passport back so next stop is passport control – this lady looks very serious. I’m polite and hand over my passport. I’m asked my full name – I answer. I’m asked where I was born, but I think she asked where I boarded – so I answer that question. Realising the error, I answer the question she actually asked. I’m asked what my father’s name is – I answer. I’m asked what his father’s name was – I answer (although that night I realise I was wrong, thank goodness she didn’t know that). I’m asked where I’m heading and visiting – I answer. “And then” she asks? I resist the urge to reference “Dude, where’s my car?” in my response. Between each question, she’s looking between my passport and me with suspicion in her eyes. It’s an interesting feeling – not necessarily disconcerting, but interesting. I decide it’s time to not only be pleasant, but also delightful and charming as with my answer. 

It worked! Or at least that’s the story I’m sticking with. No more questions, she smiles and gives me back my passport. One final check, a lady staring at my passport and my face to make sure I was really me. Once everyone is on the bus (a new bus with our Israeli guide Sam) – we’re officially in Israel and can make our way to Ginosar on the shore of the Sea of Galilee where we will be staying for the next few days.

It’s Saturday by now, so it is not a proper working day and not all the rooms are ready. The chosen ones are off to their rooms. The rest of us wait in the lobby, drink our welcome drinks and wait. I resisted sitting for a while but eventually do. It is now that the tiredness starts to creep in. I can’t tell you how long we waited for our rooms, it equally felt like forever, and also not that long. I and another girl were second last to get our keys – just enough time to get everything to my room, unpack essentials, prepare for the next day and then it’s time for dinner. We’re all tired at dinner, and none of us last very long. 

Dinner done, it’s time for a shower so I can feel human again, then bed and the sweet, sweet abyss of sleep.